The Northern Cape is a somewhat harsh, arid landscape which features quaint villages and memories from days gone by… the ideal place to discover the very roots of the Afrikaner and the cultural heritage of these hardy, homely folk.
Steeped in tradition, you will find many tales from a bygone era intermingled with great hospitality, “witblits”, “biltong” and recipes which Grandma had inherited from her grandma…
Regardless of whether you are a nature lover or history enthusiast, for sheer variety there is probably very little which beats a trip from Cape Town to Durban via the famous Garden Route. The scenery is amazing and there are ample opportunities to enjoy splendid beaches along the way (such as at Jeffrey’s Bay, which is a renowned site for surfers) and also to take in natural indigenous forests. Indeed, one of the highlights of any such trip must be the Tsitsikamma and Storm’s River region of the Eastern Cape. Adventurous travellers are sure to enjoy doing the Tsitsikamma Canopy Tour or, for the brave, there is the Bloukrans Bridge Bungy Jump which is listed by Guinness World Records as “the highest commercially operated Bungy Jump in the world”.
For the more laid-back traveller a visit to the Addo Elephant National Park is very highly recommended, as is a visit to the Cango Wildlife Ranch and, of course, the Cango Caves in the Oudtshoorn vicinity. The opportunity to visit an Ostrich Farm and ride one of these feathered beauties is also available.
Further north you will pass through what was formerly known as the Transkei and encounter rural habitats and relaxed coastal villages such as Coffee Bay and Port St. Johns. The latter is a small, typical Third World town which attracts many European tourists due to its spectacular natural surroundings and relaxed, friendly atmosphere. PSJ is also the (unofficial) South African capital of “ganja” (marijuana), which probably accounts for the myriads of backpackers who pass through the region. And, of course, home to the eccentric and much publicized Ben Decker (artist/actor and ex-politician wannabee) who lives in a cave with a stunning 180 degree sea view.
Located at the mouth of the Umzimvubu River, the town combines virgin forests with stunning ocean views and is pure paradise for any nature lover who wishes to explore its many hiking trails, discover secluded waterfalls and awesome views from the top of Mount Thesiger. I’ve been privileged to spend a few years as a “local” (before returning to my Cape Town roots) and can highly recommend a stay at the Umzimvubu Retreat Guest House.
For those who prefer to add some bright lights to their itinerary, major cities en route such as East London, Port Elizabeth and, of course, both Durban and Cape Town offer everything you may desire. In brief, no matter whether you are seeking natural splendor, historical highlights, an adrenalin rush or sophisticated city life, the Garden Route combines it all in a breathtakingly beautiful package.
Surrounded by virgin forests and an unadulterated African landscape of
mountains, river and ocean views, this well-maintained property
on First Beach, Port St Johns consists of three adjoining houses and functions both as a guest house
and self-catering establishment. Set in immense, natural gardens with
awe inspiring views of the Umzimvubu River, ocean, mountains and nearby
golf course, the Umzimvubu Retreat Guest House is a family-run
establishment and the owners/hosts, who reside on the property, are
therefore always available to assist with any enquiries. They are
renowned for their hospitality and willingness to accommodate whichever
requests guests may make, whether it be special guided outings, dietary
requirements or whatever. This attitude has also been instilled in the
staff, who are exceptionally friendly and willing to assist.
The guestrooms are not particularly large, but are spotlessly clean and
comfortably equipped. The honeymoon suite, however, is enormous and
offers all required amenities with awe inspiring views (even from the
modern bathroom) and a fireplace in the well-appointed lounge. The majority of the rooms have excellent views (you can actually watch
whales from your room!) and have private entrances and patios where one
can relax and enjoy the scenery and abundant birdlife, lulled by the
sounds of the ocean. There are numerous hiking trails to secluded
waterfalls and spectacular stretches of beach in close proximity to the
guest house make for an idyllic vacation. Although shopping options are
very limited, there are minibus taxis for those who want to undertake a
scenic trip to Umtata. Nightlife is limited to quaint diners and
backpacking bars, but then again you would be ill-advised to forfeit
the friendly atmosphere and fine dining at what is arguably the best
restaurant in town right at the guesthouse. Set-menu options are
traditional SA cooking and gigantic breakfasts are served daily, the
selections regularly being varied & as a rule including fresh fruit
salad, home baked delicacies and more. A nice touch is that coffee and
biscuits are on hand at all times for guests who become peckish.
The a la carte menu is a fusion of French and Asian cuisine, prepared
according to high standards and nicely presented. Overall the
restaurant has an aura of understated elegance and sophistication
without being overly formal. The prompt, friendly service provided by
the hosts adds to the cosy atmosphere, making dinner a relaxed,
memorable experience.
Passing the main entrance of the Houses of Parliament during the Citysightseeing bus tour in Cape Town:
